114 In the footsteps of the mlekarice
Distance: 18 km, Altitude change: 540 m
In the past, life was hard for everyone. This was especially true for
women who carried and delivered milk, known locally as mlekarice. Every
morning, before five o’clock, they would put a basket with thirty or forty litres
of milk on their backs and walk down to Opatija, so that the town’s wealthy people
could have fresh milk for breakfast. Weather conditions made no difference to
the mlekarice: in rain and snow, through mud and ice, on Sundays and
holidays, they trudged downhill because Opatija simply could not remain without
milk.
This circular trail starts in the village of
Zvoneća, known for its Jarbola wine and the Church of St Anthony, and leads towards
the hamlets of Sušnji and Zdemer, where there is a memorial plaque to the mlekarice
dairy women and a počivalo bench where they would rest for a while along
their daily route. The trail then continues towards Rukavac and Lisina. Offering
fantastic views of Kvarner, interesting places to visit, forest areas to admire
and local foods to taste, this itinerary is simply irresistible.
DID YOU KNOW?
It is estimated that a dairy woman who carried
milk to Opatija for about forty years would have walked more than 40,000 km in
total – like walking around the Earth’s Equator!